Spacemacs was completely unresponsive at startup.  Turns out, for whatever reason, it was after I was using my laptop in a new place, and based on this FAQ obviously the ISP there was doing something funky:

Adding the settings there to the user-init function did the trick:

(setq tramp-ssh-controlmaster-options
      "-o ControlMaster=auto -o ControlPath='tramp.%%C' -o ControlPersist=no")

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